Bacteria are often cast as the microbial villains of our food system, blamed for spoilage and sickness. But behind the scenes — or rather, inside the scenes of yogurts, sourdoughs, and cheeses — they are also master chemists. Bacteria create many of the flavors we enjoy, and sometimes, they also create useful nutrients in the process.

Meanwhile, plant-based milks may be better for the planet (and in some ways, for our health as well), but they often leave something to be desired on the palate. Now, scientists are trying to merge the two to improve the flavor, texture, and nutritional value of plant-based dairy alternatives.

More LAB for our milk

As more people shift away from animal products — plant-based “milks” have flooded grocery store shelves. But replicating the rich, creamy, subtly sweet experience of dairy has proven difficult. Plant-based dairy alternatives are often described as “grassy,” “beany,” or “astringent.” This is where lactic acid bacteria, or LAB, come in.

Lactic acid bacteria (LAB) are the microbial allies behind yogurt, kefir, and cheese. Now, these bacteria are being reimagined as flavor-fixing agents in oat milk yogurts, almond-based cheeses, and soy kefirs.

“We see food fermentation as a platform technology that can support the creation of alternative foods which taste better and have higher nutritional value, allowing the use of more sustainable raw materials,” says Guillermo-Eduardo Sedó Molina, PhD student at DTU National Food Institute.

The study analyzed reports on various types of bacteria. They found that not all LAB are created equal. Those that have evolved in plant environments are better at breaking down the very compounds that make plant-based foods less appealing. In other words, these are the ones you’d probably want in plant-based milks.

Species like Lactiplantibacillus plantarum and Limosilactobacillus fermentum can degrade phytates, oxalates, and raffinose-family oligosaccharides — antinutrients that block mineral absorption or cause digestive discomfort. Others like Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus and L. paracasei can break down bitter peptides and volatile aldehydes that are responsible for off-flavors like “beany” or “earthy.”

But it’s not just about the taste.

More bacteria, more nutritious?

The metabolic prowess of LAB doesn’t just make food taste better — it can also improve nutrition. Phytic acid, common in grains and legumes, binds essential minerals like iron and zinc, making them less bioavailable. LAB fermentation breaks these bonds, effectively freeing the nutrients for absorption in our digestive tract. The process also reduces the amount of oligosaccharides that cause gas and bloating — meaning fermented soy or pea yogurt might actually be easier on the stomach than unfermented versions.

For the plant-based food industry, this is a game-changer. Instead of masking off flavors with sugar, salt, or artificial additives, companies can let bacteria do the work — naturally and sustainably.

“Our review of the current research shows that fermentation with lactic acid bacteria can improve flavour perception and help make products more nutritionally complete,” says Claus Heiner Bang-Berthelsen, Senior Researcher at DTU National Food Institute.

The study suggests that fermentation isn’t just a traditional method — it’s biotechnology. Furthermore, while the study focused on plant-based dairy alternatives, the same technology could be used in other types of food. Fermentation with selected lactic acid bacteria may therefore prove to be a key technology in developing a wide range of sustainable foods.

In a world that’s increasingly plant-powered, bacteria might just be the secret ingredient we were missing.

The study was published in Comprehensive Reviews.